Leaving Beijing

An e-mail account of my disastrous departure of China's capital city...

You will not believe what I am going to tell you. Well, remember that we parted at the bus station a little after 3 pm. The bus did not start moving until 3:25 and when it did, it was barely at a snail's pace the entire trip. It arrived at its final destination around 4:30. That final destination was supposed to be the airport, right? It dropped us off at the far side, behind that tarmac. I saw airplanes so I figured that it couldn't be far away. I decided to walk but had no idea where I was going. There was this greasy motorcycle dude hawking his services to drive me to the airport and I would have used him had he not been so unbelievably obnoxious. He just wouldn't leave me alone even after I started cursing in Chinese. I backtracked to ask a guard. He said that it was just over the bridge so that's where I headed.

What was over the bridge? More highways that went in the opposite direction of the airport. The only way for me to get to the other side was to jump down one level going the other way. I then, threw my bag down and jumped over this barbed wire wall onto a tuff of grass. There was a guard standing a little way off watching the whole thing without a wink. I asked him where the airport was and he pointed down the highway. There is no sidewalk. I proceed to run through on coming traffic down the middle of the highway, for there was more room to run down the middle than the side since there was also an underpass. I run for ten minutes down the highway along the traffic ramps that lead to the arrival and departure building. No taxi would stop. I'm sweating like crazy and finally find my check in counter around 4:50. Check in has already closed for my flight at 5:15.

I can't believe this. When I bought the ticket in Beijing, the agent specifically told me that this ticket could not be changed because of its cheap price. At the time, I thought nothing of it. I'd never missed a flight and didn't plan on it this time. But it happened. The good thing was that they had another one leaving at 8:05. I waited on one line only to be directed to another line to change my ticket. One woman looked at my canceled Taiwanese visa and was about to ask someone else when I told her it was the wrong visa she was looking at. That is how competent these ladies were at Air China. After being shipped around to different counters, the last one told me that the ticket could not be changed. My heart sank. Then she said that she would do me a favor this time but that it would be the last. I succeeded in getting a boarding pass without any additional charges. Boarding time was at 7:35. 7:35 came and went. I knew I was at the right gate because everybody was speaking Cantonese. I went up to the attendant around 5:50 to ask and she said boarding was in another 20 minutes. I thought, "But the plane should have already taken off by then." It didn't take off until 8:35 and didn't arrive at Hong Kong until around 11:30. I looked at my ferry schedule and the next ferry was supposed to leave at 2:20 am. I decided to take the bus as opposed to the high speed train and save 80HKD since time really wasn't an issue. I took my time walking to the ferry and when I got there around 1:20 I lay down on a bench next to the pier. It was 2:10 when I went in to get my ticket but I read a sign that said the next boat was to leave at three and the one after that was 4:15. I looked at the schedule and I realized I misread it. The ferry from Cheung Chau to HK left at 2:20 and the one I was supposed to take from HK to Cheung Chau left at 1:30. I didn't see the boat come because I was on the other side of the pier. Shit! I waited for the one at three got on and went to sleep. A half hour later, we arrive somewhere but it is not Cheung Chau. It's Peng Chau. It took the wrong boat! This never happens. All the boats that leave from this particular pier are supposed to go to Cheung Chau but because it's after midnight, all the boats use one pier. Ten minutes later we're at Lantau. I just back tracked to the island where the airport is located. Now I'm really freaking out because I think it's going to dock here until sunrise. A sailor reconciles my worries and says were heading back to Central (HK). Now I'm thinking that I won't make it back in time for the 4:15 boat. It turns out that the same boat goes to Cheung Chau after stopping in Central. I don't get back home until around 5am, 12 hours after I was to have left Beijing.